從二十世紀初舊照片中的服飾來談三個四川西北嘉絨貴族家庭的服飾

王廷宇。〈從二十世紀初舊照片中的服飾來談三個四川西北嘉絨貴族家庭的服飾〉。《民俗曲藝》216 (2022.6): 27-88。

Wang Tingyu. “A Study of Three rGyalrong Noble Families’ Clothing in Northwest Sichuan as Seen in Nine Early 20th-century Photos.” Journal of Chinese Ritual, Theatre and Folklore 216(2022.6): 27-88.

 

Abstract

 

本文從二十世紀初舊照片中三個四川西北嘉絨藏人貴族家庭的服飾，來看漢藏之間嘉絨土司（土守備）如何以服飾作為具體化的表徵，進而呈現出清中葉至民初川西北邊區社會邊界流動與多重性的歷史特色，此特色仍影響着當代的嘉絨社會與文化。王明珂（2010）將這個歷史特色論述為先經過「吐蕃化」再經過程度不一的「漢化」，本文則希望藉由服飾的細節比較來深入挖掘王明珂提出來的區域歷史特色，並帶入服飾如何呈現族群邊界的理論討論。本文希望以二十世紀初九張老照片中的服飾為出發點，試着從岷江流域的瓦寺土司索代賡家族、雜谷腦河流域的雜谷腦土守備高益齋家族，以及梭磨河流域的卓克基土司索觀瀛家族做比較。試圖討論這三個嘉絨家族，以服飾作為文化具體化形式，如何以程度不一的換裝及混搭的服飾形式，從性別、區域以及男女成對的方式來描述川西北邊區社會的生存之道。

This paper examines photos of three early 20th-century rGyalrong noble families to determine how they used their clothing to symbolize the dynamic and diverse history of northwest Sichuan during the late Qing Dynasty and early Republican eras. These rGyalrong noble families are all of the native official rank of tusi (native chieftain) or tushoubei (native commander). Historian Wang Mingke has proposed that northwest Sichuan went through a process of “Tibetanization” before its “Sinicization.” In this study, I intend to explore the regional historical characteristics Wang raised by comparing details of the clothing. I will also discuss how clothing is related to theory of ethnic boundary.

Drawing examples from the three families, the Wasi native chieftains, the Zagunao native commanders and the Zhuokeji native chieftains, I discuss how they use their clothing to embody their cultural value, and how they employ different levels of style-changing in clothing and different style-mixing to illustrate the area’s complex history.

 

Also in Journal of Chinese Ritual, Theatre and Folklore:

 

何兆華、王廷宇。〈土氣、洋氣還是接地氣？重新「觀看」時尚伸展臺上的民族服裝與族群服飾〉。《民俗曲藝》210 (2020.12): 105-43。

Ho Zhaohua and Wang Tingyu. "Rustic, Fancy, or Authentic? A New Perspective on the Minority and Ethnic Clothing on the Fashion Show Runway." Journal of Chinese Ritual, Theatre and Folklore 210 (2020.12): 105-43.

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