何兆華、王廷宇。〈土氣、洋氣還是接地氣？重新「觀看」時尚伸展臺上的民族服裝與族群服飾〉。《民俗曲藝》210 (2020.12): 105-43。
Ho Zhaohua and Wang Tingyu. "Rustic, Fancy, or Authentic? A New Perspective on the Minority and Ethnic Clothing on the Fashion Show Runway." Journal of Chinese Ritual, Theatre and Folklore 210 (2020.12): 105-43.
Abstract
本文以近年無形文化遺產保存中，少數民族與族群服飾走上伸展臺的四個案例，來說明服飾作為承載文化意義的符號載體，在中國與臺灣面對全球化的情境下，如何承載不同的歷史與文化意義。搭上文化遺產保存傳承的熱潮，遠在山區的民族服裝有機會進到時尚舞臺，藉由同時展現「傳統」與「創新」的方式來「接地氣」。本研究以四個案例，來說明民族服裝或族群服飾在時尚伸展臺上的紛雜樣貌，以國族文化建構做時尚展演的，以海南黎族的「黎錦旗袍」為例子說明；透過解構民族服裝的原生脈絡以進行設計創造的，以北京服裝學院的「一方布」為例子說明；以設計師品牌為核心，挪用民族服裝的元素，以製造流行時尚的案例，以「高山青」為例子說明；尤有甚者，標榜以恢復傳統文化脈絡為之的，以「色•舞•繞」為例子說明。從四個民族或族群服飾以時尚服裝秀的形式呈現，乍看之下可以時尚產業或文化復振的價值觀來做出土氣、洋氣與接地氣的評價。但實際上，如果我們將這四個族群服飾的案例都看作符號載體，試着從中擷取出其生產與呈現方式背後的歷史與文化脈絡，那麼我們將可以換一種觀看的方式來看待這四個案例。總的來說，我們可以看到時尚、服飾設計與社會文化的關係，不是簡單地用「美」與「俗氣」可以清楚描述的，其土氣或洋氣的背後，牽涉到一套複雜且多元的意義與文化脈絡。同時，這些案例也告訴了我們這些參與族群服飾再生產的人們，又是如何透過服飾的設計與呈現，將中國或臺灣與全球化的世界做銜接，以及個人在當代社會同時過着原住民與都市生活的歷程具體地表達出來。
This paper explores four cases of minority and ethnic fashions
and their presentation on the runway in the context of intangible cultural
heritage. It aims to demonstrate how clothing can be recognized as symbols
bearing historical and cultural signi
This research describes the diverse and complicated aspects of
ethnic clothing with four case studies. The first case, “Li Jin Qipao,”
demonstrates how the cultural construction of nationalism can be presented as
performance in a fashion show. The second case, “Yifangbu,” uses techniques of
fashion design to deconstruct the minority clothing context and reassemble it
in a creative way. The third case, “Gaoshanqing,” presents how a fashion
designer adapts and appropriates elements of ethnic clothing to produce
garments that caters to popular fashion aesthetic. The fourth case, “S’uraw,”
emphasizes the revival of traditional cultural contexts through ethnic
clothing.
A first glance, the four cases mentioned above could be
described as rustic, fancy, or authentic according to notions from the fashion
industry or cultural heritage revival. In fact, if we take them as symbol
carriers, trying to extract the historical and cultural contexts behind the
production and presentation, we will have a new perspective. To sum up, the
relation between fashion, clothing design and social culture cannot be reduced
to terms like “fancy” or “rustic.” Behind these over-simplified terms, there is
a whole set of complex and diverse meanings as well as cultural contexts. At
the same time, these cases inform us how people involved in the ethnic clothing
re-production industry employ ideas of fashion design and presentation to link
up China, Taiwan and the global world. They also give us a concrete idea of how
an individual in modern society leads both indigenous and urban life.
Also in Journal of Chinese
Ritual, Theatre and Folklore:
何兆華。〈花樣本：貴州苗族刺繡技藝傳承與地方社會〉。《民俗曲藝》192 (2016.6): 97-165。
Ho Zhao-hua. “Embroidered
Images: Women’s Inheritance of Embroidery Techniques and Local Miao Communities
in
http://ritualtheatreandfolkloreat.blogspot.tw/2016/08/blog-post_12.html
何兆華。〈貴州施洞苗族的儀式專家與歷史〉。《民俗曲藝》188 (2015.6): 109-76。
Ho Zhaohua. “Ritual
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http://ritualtheatreandfolkloreat.blogspot.tw/2015/08/blog-post_47.html
何兆華。〈當「做花」成「做人」：施洞苗族非物質文化遺產之傳承與變遷〉。《民俗曲藝》185 (2014.9): 51-114。
Ho Zhao-hua. “When 'Making
Motifs' Becomes 'Making a Person': Continuity and Change of Shidong Miao
Intangible Cultural Heritage.” Journal of Chinese Ritual, Theatre and
Folklore 185 (2014.9): 51-114.
http://ritualtheatreandfolkloreat.blogspot.tw/2014/12/blog-post_18.html
何兆華。〈施洞苗族剪紙圖像上的戲曲與女性形象〉。《民俗曲藝》177 (2012.9): 161-221。
Ho Zhao-hua. "Theatrical and Female Figures on Shidong Miao
Paper Stencil Images." Journal of
Chinese Ritual, Theatre and Folklore 177 (2012.9): 161-221.
http://ritualtheatreandfolkloreat.blogspot.tw/2012/09/blog-post_9092.html
何兆華。〈找吃找穿的時間：貴州施洞苗人曆法實踐中的我群建構〉。《民俗曲藝》166 (2009.12): 7-59。
Ho Zhao-hua. "Time for Food and Clothing: The Construction
of In-Group in the Shidong Miao Calendar." Journal of Chinese Ritual, Theatre and Folklore 166 (2009.12): 7-59.
http://ritualtheatreandfolkloreat.blogspot.tw/2015/08/blog-post_18.html