張育銓。〈可食與不可食的分類建構：以荖葉飲食與食安為例〉。《民俗曲藝》219
(2023.3): 11-67。
Chang Yu-chuan. “Constructing Classifications of Edible and Inedible: An Example Featuring Piper betle Diet and Food Safety.” Journal of Chinese Ritual, Theatre and Folklore 219 (2023.3): 11-67.
Abstract
傳統人類學的飲食研究中，有關可食與不可食的分類，經常對比於文化與自然、熟食與生食、潔淨與危險等文化理解。在當代多元文化揉合、人群快速流動、飲食混搭的樣態下，飲食分類的建構面臨以食安與合法作為新的準則時，日常生活的口味、飲食的傳統智慧、創新食材的研發、環境永續的營造，這些因素如何產生延續建構的動力，以因應合法化產生的食安治理。本文以荖葉飲食為分析對象，在搭配檳榔食用的歷史中，荖葉從單純的農作物被官方與醫療單位歸類為有害的成癮與致癌物質、在養生料理與環境友善的食農趨勢下成為新興食材、在生物科技的運用中成為藥材原料，在逐漸轉變的物質性質中，本文探討在分類建構的因素中，人們如何在傳統與創新中應用荖葉，形成對食安治理的因應。
In traditional anthropological dietary research, the classification of edible and inedible is often compared to cultural understandings, such as nature and culture, raw and cooked, purity and danger, etc. Under the current situation of multi-cultural blending, rapid population flow, and mixed diets, the construction of diet classifications now faces public sector taking food safety and legislation as new criteria, daily life tastes, traditional wisdom about diet, research and development of innovative ingredients, creation of environmental sustainability, etc., as well as how these factors generate impetus for continued adaptions in response to food safety governance. This article takes Piper betle diet as the object of analysis in considering these issues. In the history of eating Piper betle with betel nut, a simple crop has been classified as a harmful addiction and carcinogen by the public sector and medical institutions, while also becoming a trend in health care and environment-friendly food and agriculture, developing into an emerging ingredient, and functioning as a medicinal material in the application of biotechnology ingredients. This article explores how people use Piper betle in the contexts of tradition and innovation along with factors of classification construction to form a response to food safety governance.