曾齡儀。〈近代臺灣柴魚的生產與消費：以臺東為核心〉。《民俗曲藝》219 (2023.3): 193-230。
Tseng Lin-yi. “The Production and Consumption of Bonito in Modern Taiwan: An Investigation of the Taitung Area.” Journal of Chinese Ritual, Theatre and Folklore 219 (2023.3): 193-230.
Abstract
「鰹節」（柴魚）在日本的製作與消費行之有年，其味道被稱為“umami”（鮮味），是日本飲食文化的獨特味道。二十世紀初期，日本殖民政府積極開發臺灣的漁業資源，將柴魚製作技術與飲食文化傳入臺灣，透過人力培植、水產技術以及柴魚工廠的設立，「臺灣節」（臺灣生產的鰹節）成為帝國技術的表徵。二次戰後日人離臺，但是柴魚的製作技術和飲食文化留存了下來，成為臺灣日常飲食中常見的調味品。本研究探討近代臺灣的柴魚生產與消費，特別著重臺東地區的考察，因該地區自日治以來至1980年代，一直是柴魚的重要產地。透過本研究可看到「鰹魚」這項水產漁類，在近代臺灣不同歷史與社會條件下，從早期較廉價的「脯魚」，轉變為日治時期昂貴的「鰹節」，以及戰後大眾消費與常民飲食中的「柴魚」滋味。
Japan boasts a long history of production and
consumption of skipjack-tuna products, an important source of the umami flavor
characteristic of Japanese cuisine. After Taiwan’s incorporation into the
Japanese Empire in 1895, the colonial authorities surveyed aquatic resources
around Taiwan and introduced modern methods for catching skipjack tuna and
producing dried skipjack-tuna flakes (known in Japanese as katsuobushi).
The Japanese colonial government incorporated Taiwan into its broader system of
aquatic industry modernization by performing three major feats: developing a
labor force for the aquatic industry, importing new aquatic technologies, and establishing
skipjack-tuna factories. As a result, katsuobushi produced in Taiwan (“Taiwan
bushi”) became a symbol of Japan’s imperial technology in Taiwan. At the
end of the Second World War, the Japanese were forced out of Taiwan, but
skipjack-tuna products’ production technology and dietary culture became common
components of Taiwan’s daily diet. The present study explores the production
and consumption of skipjack-tuna products in modern Taiwan, focusing on the
Taitung area because it was one of the most important locations for skipjack-tuna
products from the Japanese colonial period up to the 1980s. This study traces
changes in the materiality of fish known as “bonito” under different historical
and social conditions in modern Taiwan: from the relatives cheap “preserved fish”
in early traditional society to the expensive katsuobushi during the Japanese
colonial period to a popular taste in postwar Taiwan’s daily diet.