張正霖。〈打造「經典客家菜」：飲食敘事、族群政策與臺灣客家意象之建構（2000年迄今）〉。《民俗曲藝》220
(2023.6): 63-115。
Chang Cheng-lin. “Shaping “Classic Hakka Cuisine”: Food Narratives, Ethnic Policy, and the Construction of Hakka Images in Taiwan since 2000.” Journal of Chinese Ritual, Theatre and Folklore 220 (2023.6): 63-115.
Abstract
臺灣的客家菜論述約自1980年代起，由民間自發開展。2001年行政院客家委員會成立，客家飲食文化遂成為標誌族群差異的重要組成之一。有關客家飲食與菜系的認證和推廣，開始長期被納入行政院客家委員會的施政內容中。與此同時，客家特色菜之論述形構及實踐，在政府政策推動與民間協力下，日益成為描繪客家族群意象的重要依據。2005年前後，臺灣「客家菜」的特色開始被普遍定義為「油」、「鹹」、「香」之核心敘事，藉以指涉客家族群特定的集體意象，如刻苦耐勞、勤奮刻苦以及定居山區等。其中關鍵，乃是將「四炆四炒」逐步界定為經典客家菜的代表。2012年，伴隨客家委員會「客家特色餐廳認證輔導暨人才培訓」等政策的推動，以「四炆四炒」為主的典型敘事結構獲得確立，並被持續文創化、商業化及精緻化。換言之，飲食敘事與族群政策兩者相輔相成，成為演示當代臺灣客家意象最日常化的範疇。通過特定飲食文化的界定和推廣，後解嚴時期之臺灣客家族群成為可被命名的想像共同體。准此，本文以「油、鹹、香」與「四炆四炒」等敘事在官方族群政策的產生和演變歷程為分析對象，探討此一具後設屬性的客家飲食論述和指涉，如何被納入當代臺灣客家族群意象的建構過程。
Since the 1980s, discourse on Hakka cuisine in Taiwan has been carried out spontaneously by civil society. In 2001, the Hakka Affairs Council of the Executive Yuan was established, and Hakka food culture became an important facet of symbolizing ethnic differences. Under the government’s leadership, the certification and promotion of Hakka diet or “Hakka cuisine” have been included in the Hakka Affairs Council’s governance structure over a long period of time. With the cooperation of state and civil society, the formation of discourse and practice of Hakka specialties has gradually become an important basis for depicting Hakka images. Around 2005, the characteristics of Taiwan’s “Hakka cuisine” were generally described as “oily, salty, and pungent” to fit this narrative. Eating habits became symbols to refer to specific collective images of the Hakka people, such as hard-working, frugal, and settled in mountainous areas. The key part of this endeavor involved gradually defining “Si Wen Si Chao” (Four Braised and Four Stir-fried Dishes) as representative of classic Hakka cuisine. In 2012, with the promotion of the Hakka Affairs Council’s policies such as “Hakka Specialty Restaurant Certification and Talent Training Program,” a typical narrative structure based on “Si Wen Si Chao” was established and has been continuously linked to cultural and creative industrialization, commercialization, and being refined. In other words, the construction of food narratives and ethnic policy, which complement each other, has become the most common category to demonstrate contemporary Taiwanese Hakka imagery. Through the definition and promotion of a specific food culture, Taiwanese Hakka has become an imagined community that can be effectively identified. Based on these phenomena, this article focuses on the emergence and evolution of official ethnic policy narratives such as “oily, salty, and pungent” and “Si Wen Si Chao” as objects of analysis to explore how these metaphysical discourses and references to Hakka cuisine were incorporated into the construction process of contemporary Taiwanese Hakka imagery.