織藝與織憶：花蓮縣卓溪鄉賽德克族Duta群編織技藝與記憶的日常實踐

賴淑娟。〈織藝與織憶：花蓮縣卓溪鄉賽德克族Duta群編織技藝與記憶的日常實踐〉。《民俗曲藝》209 (2020.9): 211-74。

Lai Shu-chuan. “Weaving Skill and Weaving Memory: The Practice of Everyday Life on Weaving Skill and Memory for Duda People in Sanli Village, Zhuoxi Township, Hualian County.” Journal of Chinese Ritual, Theatre and Folklore 209 (2020.9): 211-74.  

 

Abstract

 

臺灣原住民賽德克族中有一Duta群，因遷徙歷史的緣故散居在各泰雅、太魯閣與賽德克族的部落，在花蓮縣卓溪鄉山里部落是Duta群族人居處密集的地方。相對於其他部落，此部落有多位善於編織的耆老，並且還延續為女兒、孫女編織嫁妝的習俗。當原鄉各地熱切地投入部落營造與文化產業的推動，山里對織布文化的發展沒有很強的市場導向，而是以家族傳承與部落節慶的展演為文化傳承的機制。本文嘗試解析為何山里部落的編織工藝得以延續？編織做為一種日常生活實踐，從事編織的婦女們如何在性別的位置中，因着經濟結構、多元勞動日常、共學網絡，甚至信仰與習俗等場域的影響，使得編織文化存續下來，但同時隨着其慣習與策略性的選擇，使得編織文化在存續過程中有着創新或變化的可能。如此在場域與慣習持續相互對話過程中，透過身體的實踐與記憶，建構織布文化與族群認同。

The Duda group is a part of Sciq of indigenous people in Taiwan and has scattered over Tayal, Tluku and Sciq villages. Sanli village, Zhuoxi Township, Hualian County, is the place that is densely populated with the Duda group. In this village, there is a relatively great number of old women who are good at weaving and keep the custom of weaving the clothes as dowry for their daughters or granddaughters. While other villages enthusiastically participate in community building and cultural industry, Duda people in Sanli focus on the inheritance of weaving culture by household work and performance of annual celebration of festival in village instead of pursuing the profit from the craft market.

This study aims to analyze the mechanism of inheritance of weaving culture as the practice of everyday life in Sanli, and to show how the weaving culture continuously exists while women, being of the female gender in the division of labor, are under the influence of such factors as the changing social economy in community, daily labor work, the learning network, religious beliefs and customs. At the same time, through the women’s habitus and strategic choice, the change and innovation of weaving culture are made possible. Thus, in the process of dialectic of structures and habitus, weaving culture and ethnic identity are constructed through bodily practice and memory.