何兆華。〈流動中的花樣：貴州革一苗族花樣本的圖像學、民族誌與知識傳承〉。《民俗曲藝》232 (2026.6): 199–251。
Ho Zhaohua. “Patterns in Motion: Iconography, Ethnography, and Knowledge Transmission in Miao Embroidery Samplers from Geyi (Guizhou).” Journal of Chinese Ritual, Theatre and Folklore 232 (2026.6): 199–251.
Abstract
本文以貴州黔東南台江縣革一地區苗族之「花樣本」為研究核心，探討其在織造、刺繡與服裝製作體系中的實際運作，以及於技藝傳承與儀式實踐中的功能。研究結合圖像學與民族誌方法，透過花樣本、織造操作、命名語法與服裝使用情境之交叉分析，說明其在地方知識體系中的位置。研究指出，花樣本並非單純裝飾圖樣，而是一種具程序性特徵的操作媒介。其透過命名語法、針數結構與構圖規則，將圖像轉譯為可執行的工序，並在教學、示範與技藝評鑑中反覆運作，形成可被學習與判讀的技術索引。進一步分析顯示，「同圖異稱」與「同稱異圖」並非分類混亂，而反映社群內部在圖像感知、技術導向與世代經驗上的認知分工；花式名稱在實作語境中，同時連結圖樣、服裝部位與穿著者身分，展現其技術操作與社會分類之雙重功能。
在服裝與儀式層面，本文以喪服「直路」圖樣為例，說明花樣如何透過部位配置與製作選擇轉化為可遵循的儀式規範。整體而言，革一花樣本構成一套動態且程序性的知識體系，補充並修正過去偏重靜態分類與象徵詮釋的研究取向，深化對技藝實作、服裝配置與社會秩序之間關係的理解。
This article examines the huayangben
(embroidery samplers) of the Miao community in Geyi, (Taijiang County,
southeastern Guizhou), focusing on their practical operation within weaving,
embroidery, and garment-making systems, as well as their roles in technical
transmission and ritual practice. Combining iconographic analysis with
ethnographic methods, it analyzes pattern books, weaving operations, naming
practices, and contexts of garment use to situate huayangben within this
local knowledge system.
This study argues that embroidery samplers are not
merely decorative references but function as procedural operational media.
Through naming syntax, thread-count structures, and compositional rules, they
translate visual patterns into executable steps, there by guiding weaving
practices. Repeatedly used in teaching, demonstration, and evaluation, they
form a system of technical indices that can be learned and interpreted.
In addition, this article shows that the
coexistence of “different names for the same pattern” and “the same name for
different patterns” reflects cognitive differentiation within the Geyi Miao
community, shaped by visual perception, technical orientation, and generational
experience, rather than classificatory inconsistency. In practice, pattern
names simultaneously index motifs, garment positions, and wearer identities,
linking technical operation with social classification.
Using the “straight path” motif in funerary
garments as a case study, this article demonstrates how patterns become ritual
norms through placement and production choices. Overall, it proposes that huayangben
constitute a dynamic procedural knowledge system, revising static,
symbol-centered approaches to Miao clothing and clarifying the relationships
between technical practice, garment configuration, and social order.
Also in Journal
of Chinese Ritual, Theatre and Folklore:
何兆華、王廷宇。〈土氣、洋氣還是接地氣？重新「觀看」時尚伸展臺上的民族服裝與族群服飾〉。《民俗曲藝》210 (2020.12): 105-43。
Ho Zhaohua and Wang Tingyu. "Rustic, Fancy, or
Authentic? A New Perspective on the Minority and Ethnic Clothing on the Fashion
Show Runway." Journal of Chinese
Ritual, Theatre and Folklore 210 (2020.12): 105-43.
https://ritualtheatreandfolkloreat.blogspot.com/2020/12/blog-post_24.html
何兆華。〈花樣本：貴州苗族刺繡技藝傳承與地方社會〉。《民俗曲藝》192 (2016.6): 97-165。
Ho Zhao-hua. “Embroidered
Images: Women’s Inheritance of Embroidery Techniques and Local Miao Communities
in
http://ritualtheatreandfolkloreat.blogspot.tw/2016/08/blog-post_12.html
何兆華。〈貴州施洞苗族的儀式專家與歷史〉。《民俗曲藝》188 (2015.6): 109-76。
Ho Zhaohua. “Ritual
Specialists and History in Shidong Miao Society,
http://ritualtheatreandfolkloreat.blogspot.tw/2015/08/blog-post_47.html
何兆華。〈當「做花」成「做人」：施洞苗族非物質文化遺產之傳承與變遷〉。《民俗曲藝》185 (2014.9): 51-114。
Ho Zhao-hua. “When
'Making Motifs' Becomes 'Making a Person': Continuity and Change of Shidong
Miao Intangible Cultural Heritage.” Journal of Chinese Ritual, Theatre and
Folklore 185 (2014.9): 51-114.
http://ritualtheatreandfolkloreat.blogspot.tw/2014/12/blog-post_18.html
何兆華。〈施洞苗族剪紙圖像上的戲曲與女性形象〉。《民俗曲藝》177 (2012.9): 161-221。
Ho Zhao-hua. "Theatrical and Female Figures on
Shidong Miao Paper Stencil Images." Journal
of Chinese Ritual, Theatre and Folklore 177 (2012.9): 161-221.
http://ritualtheatreandfolkloreat.blogspot.tw/2012/09/blog-post_9092.html
何兆華。〈找吃找穿的時間：貴州施洞苗人曆法實踐中的我群建構〉。《民俗曲藝》166 (2009.12): 7-59。
Ho Zhao-hua. "Time for Food and Clothing: The
Construction of In-Group in the Shidong Miao Calendar." Journal of Chinese Ritual, Theatre and
Folklore 166 (2009.12): 7-59.
http://ritualtheatreandfolkloreat.blogspot.tw/2015/08/blog-post_18.html